Sunday, April 3, 2011

No Halong Bay today but Hue Tomorrow

We were really looking forward to revisiting Halong Bay and taking the junk boat out for a few hours.  We loved it last year.   From what I understand a junk boat sank last year and people died.  Maybe the cruise line did not want to take the risk.  This year, the ship did not offer a tour of the place that merits a UNESCO World Heritage nod.  Some went out on their own and rented one.  Since it was chilly and foggy we decided to just try the shore excursion, see the countryside this time.  All night long the fog horn blasted.  I woke up early anyway to watch the sail in, hoping for another glimpse of all this natural beauty.  But is was to foggy to see anything.  It is a beautiful site to see all the islands of dolomite and limestone sticking out of the water. If you look on the blog from last year there are pictures.

While here we visited a farm house and the Yen Tu Monastery.  I would not recommend coming here unless you can get out ON the Bay.  That is the magic and the draw.  The rest is dirty and dusty.  It was a long tour on roads that were really bad. Traffic is crazy. So how did I like this tour and this port?  Not great.

We visited a farmhouse. Most are made of concrete. This was an upper middle class home simply furnished. 
This is a typical kitchen in this community. I will never complain about my kitchen again. They live simply. Treasure what they have.  Live with the very basics.  People were warm and welcoming.  We were offered tea and boiled sweet potatoes.  I found many opportunities for great photos. This farmer also raised honey bees and bonsai trees. Their neighbor has a water buffalo tied up in his front yard.  Don't know why.  I found the cut glass fence and barbed wire interesting.



 

I enjoyed our visit to the Yen tu Monastery. When I got to the top, took my shoes off and entered the worship area I found a Buddhist Monk sitting cross legged on the floor talking to some of our fellow cruisers. His guide was translating.... our guide was back at the bus. Guides make a difference.  I spent most of the hour taking off my shoes and putting them back on. The Monk gave me a pamphlet on the formation and existence of Truc Lam Yen Tu Zen and suggested we all learn to meditate. Come back some day and visit he said. Be happy. Be well. Travel safely. David says Be Well all the time.  I wonder if he knows about this?

We visited a school were children were trying to take a nap but the loud funny looking old people walking around kept them awake and giggling.  Group nap anyone?

The next port in Vietnam was Da Nang.  At this port we traveled to the famous area, UNESCO World Heritage site, of Hue, (pronounced hway)  Hue was once Vietnam's Imperial City.  We bombed the heck out of during the Vietnam War in 1968.  Not much is left of it and there is not a lot of money to bring it back to its glory.  You can imagine its splendor back in the day. We visited the Heavenly Lady Pagoda, cruised on a dragon boat down the Perfume River, had lunch while being entertained with Royal Music and dance, and followed it all up with a visit to the Imperial Citadel, the Royal Palace, and a crazy crowded get-me-out-of-here Dong Ba Market.  This was a day of experiences. 

First of all everyone honks their horns while traveling on pot hole laden streets with no speed limits.  On the two lane National Road #1, everyone picks a lane and/or makes one of their own...all at the same time.  You never know if you are on a two way highway, a one way street (doesn't matter which way- you could be going the right way or the wrong way) or a 5 lane highway.  Keep your hand on the horn. Sit in the front seat.  Eat dust. Along the sides of the highway add a few bikes and pedestrians or young children standing on water buffalos seeking a few coins for their photos.... :) Hey! Shouldn't you be in school??




The Citadel, Ngan Gate. Has a moat.  The walls originally built of dirt and later reinforced by brick.  Fortified by 10 gates.  Enclosed in this structure lies the Imperial City where the government once worked and The Forbidden Purple City where Emperors and their families once lived.  We hired a bike taxi for David so he didn't have to walk. .
Forbidden Purple City, the Emperor and his family once lived here. Almost destroyed during the Vietnam War. Now it is a field of grass and rubble. Little of the original still exists. You have to be good with imagination to see it as it was.  In its day if you entered these walls and did not belong you were executed.

75% of the people in Vietnam are Buddhist/ 10% Catholic.  This is the Heavenly Lady, Thien Mu Pagoda. Back in the day people would see a vision of an old lady on this hill.  She said if you build a pagoda on this site you will have Peace forever.  So in 1601 this pagoda was erected overlooking the Perfume River. Right at her steps there are dragon boats waiting to take us on a tour of the Perfume River and drop us off for a buffet lunch. 
Along the Perfume River. I saw this cutie.  Many a family lives on this river.  On our dragon boat the sales pitch was high.  The hard sell started at $30 for a silk robe.  I bought it for $8.  It fits, looks and feels great!  Now, if it only came with a tie for its loops......  I obviously did not pay close attention.... I wonder if I will ever learn.
The calm before the storm. Sellers outside the large indoor 110 year old market.  Inside people called to you and pulled you to come look at their area.  It is crowded.  The aisles are narrow. I don't need shoes, hats, a watch or shrimp paste. Desperate times and everyone sells the same thing.  Daily life of locals can be found here.

road to the tomb



The Minh Mang Tomb is a LONG bus ride outside of Hue. It was completed in 1843 a year after the emperor passed away.  It is in a beautiful serene area next to a lake, surrounded by trees. Walking to this site so many children were begging,  Please buy a banana.
Road construction was our constant companion on this tour.

                                                          Happy to be back at port the ship

No comments:

Post a Comment