Sorry Charlie

We were scheduled to dock in Benjul at 8AM but the powers that be said 10AM is better. West Africa, go figure. At 9:25 our Captain announced "Our Pilot was supposed to board 45 minutes ago (pause) “Well, (pause) we decided to get a little bit closer. I hope he will board in the next 5-10 minutes.” In our cabin we silently cheered our Captain for finally standing up to the people pushing us around these past few ports. ... :)

We have had so much trouble in the 3 West African ports. In Benin they would not let us dock, or rather they made our entry so difficult that after 5 hours we picked up our toys and went home. In Ghana, they would not give us a pilot or throw the ropes. Passengers with balconies saw a large envelope get handed from our ship to the head of dock personnel and money was counted. We sailed off without any problem soon after. Now, after delaying our arrival by 2 hours...we have a no-show Pilot...we can only wonder what will happen next. I have heard a rumor that West Africa will be taken off all future cruises. They just hinder efforts, throw their muscle around, and seek immediate gratification for one rather then welcome tourists and encourage them to come back.

Because we were late docking one tour was canceled and all others were revised. We had time to go to Benjul Market before our now-afternoon-tour started. We hopped on the first shuttle into town. On our short ride to the Market, we were somewhat shocked by the state of the city and the port. Many sunken boats lay half submerged near the port, untouched and rotting. Streets to the city were coated with liter, garbage, and bottles seemingly to have found their place for eternity. Buildings were built, some half completed, most peeling, crumbling as if left to fend for themselves, unoccupied. Some that should be unoccupied had occupants. Many were make shift, lean-to's or boxes, boards, cement blocks and many had corrugated roofs or tarp roofs. We were told these were family compounds. This is a very very poor country covered by dust and dirt. It is the smallest country in Africa and is also on the bottom economically. We could easily see they were not ready for tourists, at the ports, or in the towns. Our money was welcomed but I don't think we felt like we were. Walking on your own was not advised. Our shuttle guide hopped off at the market and stayed by our side.

Our tour was called  “Banjul Highlights”. We were fortunate to have one of the few air conditioned buses. We spent a long time driving to every tourist spot that could be produced on this tiny island. This island is a photographers paradise if you were in a bus. On foot, people could be violent if you snapped a picture of them. We had to ask first, which I did, and then pay them. What I did was to buy something, then ask if I could take a picture to show my children where I bought it. Only one person declined after a purchase. No, she said simply, tersely. Some people were nice, friendly. We went to two Markets, saw a Mosque, visited a Batik place where fabrics were piled on tables and 'batik art' was hung on ropes with clothespins, went to the fourth-cousin-of-a -neighbor's-sister's-girlfriend's-Uncle sterling jewelry shop where 2 of us at a time could file into. I kidded about who's jewelry store it was. You see, We drove forever and went to this jewelry story in a back alley. It was so small and had nothing there. Someone HAD to be paid off for this to be a tour stop. A few people bought stuff here.  Nothing shocks me anymore.  REAL SILVER!  Sold Here! I sat on my protected bus and took pictures of children in the street. A 2 year old boy in all his glory popped out of a doorway ;  then his sister;  one girl was eating ice cream; and another was skipping down the street. I had my fun observing and catching a few cute shots..

We were scheduled to see Batik being made but found ourselves in a market displaying batik. I was not  sure it was made in Gambia. One lady was in charge. For every sale (bargaining was brutal) customers were led around the compound looking for the one lady who had the final say and collected the cash.  I had to do a quick step to keep up with my cash and my merchandise...:)  Wondering at my brisk pace if I would see either again.  Once both seller and compound-boss-lady agreed,  I could be given my fabric. When compound-boss-lady left, the sales person turned to me and said  "You have a gift for me?' .... Geez..... I dug for another dollar not knowing what else to do.  It's a business.

We almost saw Charlie. When we got to Charlie museum (swamp), (the famous alligator, if you are in the dark and don't know this), 35 people on the bus were told we had to disembark and transfer to a run down van seating 9 people at a time, take our turns, 3x3, for a 10 minute ride each way to see The Famous Charlie. The van's seats were ripped open exposing fluffy gray and white stuffing and the floor displayed pieces of cut up linoleum, I wondered if the linoleum were lifted would we see the sandy street? David and I, against every survival thought in our head, bravely climbed in and took two spaces in the middle seat of the See-Charlie-Van. After waiting somewhat patiently for 5 minutes in the hot, dirty van, swatting all the flies living in Gambia wanting to see Charlie too, we finally realized that no one had a clue or could decide what to they wanted to do. The driver was not going to move until the van was filled. We needed 3 more people. No one else was going to get in. Period. Geez...... Another vote-of-six was quickly taken and counted.... The six of us called it a day. One by one we once again took turns twisting and turning each of our body parts to get ourselves out of the Charlie van. We left the flies behind and welcomed the fresh clean Gambian air. Charlie would have to wait until our next visit to The Gambia.

We learned much later that five people on our bus did take the van down and back while the rest of our 'tourist' people shopped the Market nearby. David and I waited in the bus and people watched while everyone decided what they wanted to do. Those making the Pilgrimage said Charlie wasn't even there. He was on vacation, having lunch, just somewhere else, BUT his cousin was there and the cousin opened his mouth wide. Wow. I missed the photo op. Charlie's cousin probably wanted money for the shot. No one, I learned, took advantage of the healing waters of Charlie's home either. Maybe next cruise.

We had a stop at the “Banjul History Museum” which was a small yellow two story house with simple displays. Here we found very simplistic displays and a lot of pictures and posters. What they had displayed was not protected or behind glass, easy prey to the dust and humidity. Someone took the time to set all of this up and Banjul is proud of what they have. There were baskets, pottery, some costumes, a doll, pictures of Queen Elizabeth, some firearms and some old cooking tools.

We now say Good Bye to Western Africa as we head toward Cape Verde. Our direction is straight West, across the Atlantic. Isn't Florida over there?. What an adventure and learning experience we have had during our many Ports in Africa. What fun to circle Africa! I would not take back any of it. Africa is an amazing country. I have loved every minute and hope to be able to come back and do some more exploring.

In 12 days my feet will be on US soil ..... :)