Togo is on the West coast of Africa. It boarders Ghana to the West and Benin to the East. It is about twice the size of Maryland, a tiny little guy. When I see it on a map it reminds me of a Lego block, long, rectangular, and thin. Togo is one of those places where, after my visit, I had no energy to write about it. It was too much, too heavy, and I could not put words to what I saw, felt, or learned. I just wanted to post the pictures and say "This tells it all". They do, and that would have worked. But now I am forcing myself to deal with words. The kids wanted me to blog .... so let's give it a try.
The poverty here is real and devastating. There is NOTHING here, but it commanded over 500 clicks on my camera. Why? After few days and much thought I think this took time for me to digest because this place is so very different. Here, a bus ride makes you want to cry. As I took picture after picture I felt like maybe I was imposing. Who am I to be driving on this bus taking pictures of you? I felt a bit judgmental and guilty about my life. But, this IS their life. No one looks sad and morose or down and out. They deal. Water scarce? No electricity? Dig your own food garden in ground that does not give? No money? We still saw lots of waves and smiles. Love. And, we saw a lot of people with arms folded, watching us, not quite sure what to make of us. Maybe, to me, looking angry? quizzical? Not a happy face, for sure. I will admit some of the people we travel with are great travelers and some are just downright an embarrassment to be with. I try to just blend in, smile, appreciate, and be nice to all I meet. Ok, I may not be the best blender in West Africa, but I try.
OK, here’s my description of Togo: Potholes.
:)
I am laughing to myself.
More, you say?
Togo is a tropical, sub-Saharan (my new word learned in Africa) nation with a tropical climate, 6 .6 million live here; most are Ewes, the official language is French; 60% of the population live way below the poverty level and about the same percentage live in rural villages; education at the primary level is now free (as opposed to $4.00 a year). The $4 fee impeded most from being able to send their children to school. Today, 6 years primary is compulsory. Half the population actively participate in the native religion,Voodoo. The rest are Christian or Muslim; Togo is celebrating 50 years of independence; democracy is debatable. We spent 9 hours driving two ways (there and back) on one dirt/some paved/heavily pot-holed-two lane road that ran from the Lome port North all the way through the country of Togo and beyond. Even though we stayed in Togo, we passed at least 6 border-like-crossings - with spiked roadblocks like logs, gates, signs, and a few even had armed guards; rifles in hand. I don't understand. What was interesting, was that a couple we had drinks with later that day said they were in Togo 30 years ago and it is the same today as it was THEN. No changes. Why? Back then they were stopped mid-street by a guard with a rifle pointed at them asking the "What gifts have you brought me?".
Every few miles we would discover men on the side of the road, sweeping or shoveling the pot-holed roads. We were told it is 'expected' that we drop a coin on the road as a thank-you for 'fixing' or 'keeping' the roads. On board we had two plain clothes security guards and one medical doctor carrying medical equipment. No one said anything. It was 'touring as usual' . We have never had this kind of a team planted on a bus for us at any other port in our travel history. Interesting. What do I NOT know?
We toured the city of Lome first. It was a Sunday and a ghost town. Buildings were unkept, peeling, slum like and the streets were littered with garbage here and there. We learned the history of the country and about the government, about the family and the beliefs. This city is 'under construction' for miles along its waterfront. China is providing massive amounts of money for development and the city is happy about it. The beach area is massive and lovely, lined with palm trees and heavily used. Small make shift stalls or blankets on the ground provide shopping opportunities or places to just sit and chat or just be. How can I make enough money to survive? They sell whatever they can find. Walking along the side of the road, no sidewalks, dodging oncoming traffic, is a widely used mode of transportation
We drove for about an hour and stopped for a break, This was an adventure I hope not to repeat. Our bus pulled off the road at one of the make-shift stands in a block long village. We walked along the side of one building to the back of another, over a muddy, graveled-dirt, side-stepping puddle-ridden road to a hotel with a locked gate. When the gate was opened we were led to a hotel room where we were allowed to use the bathroom. Flush. Western. Thank You. There was no sink in this bathroom, but there were buckets with water: one on the floor and one on the toilet. Not sure why. While we waited for all to finish, we visited with some people in this village. We had a bit of time to feel the presence of being with each other. We were stared at, smiled at and in turn we were friendly and warm. People in our group bought ice cream for the children and gifts like baseball caps, pencils and candy.
Our next stop was a village school. The children were given Friday off so that they would be there on Sunday for our visit. They were all so very quiet when we first arrived, all dress up in their finest Sunday clothes. There was a cement block school house where the younger children were housed. (3 rooms) There were two open sided thatch roof class rooms for the older ones. A chalk board was in the front of each classroom. The classrooms were colorful. The children were beautiful. The rooms were barren but warm. The younger ones sang songs in French. They loved being the center of attention. We also visited their village. Thatch roofs, mostly outdoors, primitive. We saw similar villages all along the road we traveled. I did not see any indoor plumbing or electricity. I am sure some must have it somewhere, but not many. Donation jars were lined up and we filled them with school supplies, like pencils and notebooks, and cash as was suggested by the cruise staff. They demonstrated how they weave fabric with ancient handmade looms. Some were cooking (coal and wood) and some were on their knees scrubbing their wash. Children clamored for 'cadeaux' (money). If you took any pictures, the women were insistent that they be compensated. I don't blame them.
Our next stop was to another Ewe Village where were greeted by the village Chief. He was a young handsome fellow. As we made our way down a very bumpy narrow street towards the village our arrival was announced by the sound of a bugle being played. We disembarked the bus and waited for the Chief to greet us. We were received with a “libation” ceremony. In this spiritual ceremony the Chief pours a mix of wine, water and liquor on the ground to awaken the Ancestors. He drinks some of it, The Ancestors are told of our visit and asked for their blessings. Religion, culture and traditions are very important here. The link between the past and the present is strong. We enjoyed the Akpesse dance, performed by teen aged girls, with music and song. Definitely toe tapping music. We came together, yet there was still a heavy feeling of separateness.
We then stopped for lunch in a town that had an eerie, lost, forsaken feel about it. The town had wide dirt roads and was not kept up. It exuded poverty and hopelessness. I could not believe this was the place chosen to stop for lunch. Our last visit was to Sanguera to witness a real Voodoo ceremony. The roads leading to this village were more eye popping then the ceremony itself. Would we make our way out? It was pure adventure! Here we saw people practice real voodoo which included a lot of dancing, music, people in a trance, people rolling around in the dirt, the sacrifice of animals, the heating of oil and drenching themselves, and the waving tree branches. I did not understand it. The ceremony ended promptly in 45 minutes. I am not sure what to make of voodoo. Our guide and our security team brought us back to the ship safely so we could shower, get ready for dinner, and be back in our own little comfortable and sheltered “real life world”. I am forever thankful that the when the die were rolled I ended up where I am.
Our Cruise Director has a blog. I loved his experience at this port: Look if you have the time:
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